Terence Pang: Simple palates, Seriously

The first, an article in the Sydney Morning Herald by Huon Hooke with Michael Fragos (Chapel Hill, McLaren Vale) featuring in the title picture. Titled 'To filter or not to filter', it goes beyond a discussion of one option in the process of winemaking. Also mentioned is the effects of reverse osmosis aka the removal of alcohol on the taste and balance on wines. Michael has probably performed a study that any scientist would be proud of, by producing samples of the same wine treated to different levels of alcohol. Similarly, he has also trialled three different extraction techniques namely pumping over, hand plunging and the mechanised rota-fermenting. Importantly, he was stringent in his scientific approach by conducting this study on a single batch of 2010 McLaren Vale shiraz grapes. No guessing which method produced the superior wine. A good read.

The second newsfeed that caught my attention was Decanter's announcement of their masterclass line-ups for the annual Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in London. Imagine all five first growths in the same session with all five directors present. Yup, that's right. It's Lafite, Marguax, Mouton-Rothschild, Haut-Brion and Latour, two wines per chateau. What an incredible experience that would be! Other masterclasses include ten vintages of La Mission Haut-Brion and eight vintages of Opus One with winemaker Michael Silacci. Read article here.

And as if the world didn't need more wine already, Champagne has declared that the 2010 harvest will be increased by ~10%. Despite consumption falling in 2009, exports are up in 1Q this year giving the houses perhaps some pre-mature optimism. Speaking of which, would you fork over 40€ for some Spanish World Cup-winning champion wine? It's the wine of champions, or so I'm told.

26th July 2010
Have just returned from several weeks in Paris, Amsterdam and Burgundy. I have plenty of notes to write up, but with my WSET level 3 exam to sit next Monday (and having missed half the course) I'll be busting my chops into the textbook so updates will be posted middle of next week. Wish me luck!

Mr Leonard had waltzed in to Melbourne this week, and was calling in his Pinot tasting debt. The weather wasn't going to let that happen and it was only appropriate that he turned to Dan Murphy's for help. A 10% discount off 6 bottles sounded appealing to him and the last bottle to jump into the carton was a $9.90 Rioja. Well, here are the notes.

Campo Burgo 2008, Rioja DOC
13.5% alc. Clear, medium ruby colour with notes of dusty hot soil, dark red berry fruit and hint of rose petal. A very astringent wine with reductive properties that confound the wine. $9.90. 84/100.

Ata Rangi Crimson 2008, Martinborough
Clear, light crimson/ruby colour, 14% alc. Ripe plum skins, cherry, raspberry aromas. A dry, medium-bodied pinot noir with medium- tannins and acidity with flavours of sour plum flesh. Drink NOW. 87-88/100.

Christian Moueix Merlot 2005, Bordeaux DOC
Clear, medium ruby colour, 13% alc, a lively and focussed perfumed nose of ripening berries, ripe medium+ tannins, lowish acidity, dry 70% dark chocolate-like grainy tanins. An easy drink for the next 3 years. 88/100.

Cullen Red Blend 2008, Margaret River
A blend of 35% cabernet sauvignon, 27% Malbec, 25% merlot, 12% petit verdot and 1% cabernet franc. 13mths in 43% new French oak and with 12% alc. Medium+ crimson colour with a darker core, aromas of dark berry fruit, blackberry, orange capsicum, tomato leaf, tex-mex bean dip. This is a ripe and youthful wine with flavours of dark currants and blackberry. Dry, medium-full bodied wine with a fairly high level of tannins and accomodating acidity. Drink now - 2015(7). 90-91/100.

Longhop 2007 Shiraz, Adelaide Hills
This spent 13mths in seasoned American and French oak and rings in at 14.5% alc. Dark ruby colour with a lovely perfume of warm earth, dark berry fruit and a hint sour plum. Soft flavours of plum, purple berries and sweet spice. Easy oaky tannins will ease up over the next 3 years and this will drink will over the next 5-7 years. 91/100.

Chris Ringland Shiraz 2008, Barossa Valley
$20. Intense black ruby colour with a heady perfume of purple berry fruit, hint of white pepper, vanillin oak and savoury herb stalks. Rich intense dark berry flavours, a sweet wine with loads of blueberry, blackberry, plum skins. Moderately high levels of tannins with smart acidity, a long finish. This is value for money. Drink now - 2020. 92-93/100.

Henri Boillot Bourgogne Blanc 2008
A blend comprised primarily of Meursault fruit, this wine is aromatically restrained, floral notes with light citrus flavours that delicately teeter with the moderately high acidity. 88/100. $40. Tasted at Prince Wine Store.

Henri Boillot Meursault 2008
A good effort at representing the simple pleasures of fruity Meursault Chardonnay. Pale lemon colour with a green tinge, Somehow I got a huge block of oak on the initial nose, but that gave way to aromas of lemon and lime. Nice generous citrus flavours, slightly fat and could be fresher if the flavours were more focussed. Perhaps hint of lingering malolactic acid remaining in this young wine at present? 87/100. $75-90. Tasted at Prince Wine Store.

Henri Boillot Puligny Montrachet Perrieres 2008 1er cru
This pale yellow wine has a clean, restrained nose of peach flesh and stone, smattering of minerality. Nice, fresh acidity propping up ripe, fleshy lemon flavours but overall remains somewhat linear. 90/100. $135-160. Tasted at Prince Wine Store.

Henri Boillot Meursault Charmes 2008
Musky lemon-lime nose with lovely citrus and mineral flavours that are well-proportioned. Good soft finish. $135-160. 90/100. Tasted at Prince Wine Store.

Yarra Yering was evolved into a Yarra Valley landmark by the late Dr Bailey Carrodus and some pundits might even argue for its installation as an iconic Australian winery. The 2008 vintage was the last to be overseen by Bailey who passed away in September that year. He had the perfect academic foundation for success in viticulture with a PhD in plant physiology from Oxford which was put to use in lectureship positions at Adelaide and Melbourne Universities. Armed with winemaking knowledge via Roseworthy and after time with CSIRO, Bailey took himself into the Yarra Valley and founded Yarra Yering in 1969. Naturally, he undertook the viticulture of initial 12ha of vines and winemaking by himself. Expansion of the vineyards was undertaken in the 80s and 90s when small parcels of land were purchased to account for the deserved increase in demand for Bailey's wines.

The winery and vineyards are located in Gruyere, off the Maroonda highway through the Yarra Valley. Bailey clearly knew what he was shopping for as the majority land is north facing and allow the vines to bask in the benefits of sunshine to the fullest extent. The soil composition is primarily silt and clay loam but with bands of gravel running through to facilitate root aeration and drainage (the latter not really a factor during recent years of drought). The winery itself is surrounded by diverse land parcels with gently sloping land right in front of the beautifully done up cellar door (left), a slight elevation that you can admire sitting in the tasting room to the higher elevated flats behind the winery itself (right).
Yarra Yering vineyards front

The uniqueness of the land and astute knowledge of its founder is clearly demonstrated in the variety of wines made and the philosophical approach to winemaking. I'm unable to avoid using this term, but yes, this is unique terrior we're referring to. No one can question the boldness of one who plants chardonnay and viognier, pinot noir and shiraz. Then again, back then, you just had to give everything a go. At that time, the Yarra was attempting to re-discover itself all over again as a wine-producing region. But it does take foresight and plenty of self-belief to terrace a north-west facing slope to plant Portuguese varietals NOT only for the sole purpose of producing port but also for a still blend. Overall, it is safe to say that Bailey was really good at honest winemaking, regardless of style. Yarra Yering has consistently produced beautiful, long-living Bordeaux blends over the decades. This was acknowledged by Langton's in its initial classification of Australian wines although it has been pushed down the rankings in recent revisions but that is primarily due to the waves of up-and-coming labels (it is currently classed 'Excellent' by Langton's classification IV). At the same time, his attempts at the classic Cote-Rotie blend of Shiraz Viognier were no less successful and not surprisingly, Tim Kirk of Clonakilla fame has previously described Bailey as a significant mentor of his.

No one was spared the troubles and distress of the Yarra region over the past few years of drought and bushfires. The 2008 vintage should undoubtedly receive strong interest from both loyal customers and poignant collectors who appreciate the historical significance of the current release. Next year's releases will also garner interest as it will be the first releases of the new owner and winemaking team.

Yarra Yering Chardonnay 2008
$75. Chardonnay from original 1969 plantings (41-year old vines), fermented in small open-fermenters with malolactic fermentation complete in 40% new French oak barrels. Soft aromas of honey and lemon peel with a strong presence of chalky talc. A medium-bodied wine with soft citrus flavours, an element of minerality and well-balanced by ripe acids that fade off nicely. Drink over next 5+ years. 90-91/100. Tasted at winery May 2010.

Yarra Yering Carrodus Viognier 2008
$150. Light gold colour, nice soft nose with the typical prominence of apricot, orange blossom, acacia and a touch of marzipan. A full-bodied white that is well-weighted with lovely lemon and mandarin flavours. An appropriate level of ripe acidity and there's a zingy finish, but I get a sense that it could do with a touch more freshness. Drink over next 3-4 years. 89/100. Tasted at winery May 2010.

Yarra Yering Pinot Noir 2008
$75. A nice expressive Pinot Noir with notes of strawberry, plum skins, mushroom water and a touch of oak. Medium-bodied with ripe berry flavours balanced by good acidity. An easy drink with the flavours fading off very cleanly. Drink over the next 5 years. 89/100. Tasted at winery May 2010.

Yarra Yering Agincourt Cabernet Merlot 2007
$75. Aromas of blackberry, spicy plum overlayed by touch of fresh crushed herbs and hint of tar. Vibrant fruit flavours both spicy and zippy. Smooth even tannins offer a firm structure but maybe needs a bit more acidity to keep the finish fresher and more lively as it trails off. Keep 2-3 years, then drink until 2018. 92/100. Tasted at winery May 2010.

Yarra Yering Dry Red Wine No. 1 2008
$75. A classic claret blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Lovely nose of blackberry, dark raspberry and a splash of savoury stew. Medium-bodied wine with a generous dollop of dark berry fruit flavours. An appropriate level of acidity but the tannins are a touch too wimpy for me. They're too soft to prop up the weighty flavours and should be more robust. Drink over next 5-7 years. 91/100. Tasted at winery May 2010.

Yarra Yering Carrodus Merlot 2008
$150. An expressive effort that brings out a side of Merlot quite uncommon to Australia. Notes of black plum with a touch of herb and chocolate-like grains. A nice medium-bodied wine with moderate level of tannins and acidity. A well-rounded drink offering up generous ripe red/black fruit flavours. Drink over next 8-10 years. 91-92/100. Tasted at winery May 2010.

Yarra Yering Carrodus Cabernet Merlot 2008
$150. Lovely up-lifting perfume of blackberry, blackcurrant fruit with a touch of green stalky herbs. A medium to full-bodied wine with plump dark berry flavours and fine tannins. If there's a displeasure to pointed out, it's perhaps that sensation that the merlot does feel to swamp the cabernet sauvignon somewhat? But one can't argue against what it does for this wine - gives it body, weight and spicy acidity. Drink over next 7-12 years. 91/100. Tasted at winery May 2010.

Yarra Yering Dry Red Wine No.3 2008
$75. A blend of six Portuguese varieties - Touriga Nacional, Tinta Cao, Tina Amarela, Alvarelhao, Roriz and Sousao. The colour is purple and pitch black. Warm, sexy seductive black fruit, berries, plum. Think onix and jet chips. This full-bodied wine is warm and inviting, generous fruit load that is very well balanced and the even, well-dispersed tannins provide a firm backbone. Medium acidity, the finish is smoother and lighter than I anticipated. Drink 2010 - 2020. 94/100. Tasted at winery May 2010.