21st June 2009
Mount Mary Quintet 2005, Yarra Valley, VIC
$125-150. A blend of cabernet sauvignon (46%), merlot (26%), cabernet franc
(18%), malbec (5%) and petit verdot (5%). Typical cabernet sauvignon and
cabernet franc nuances on the nose. It's like drinking a crushed up piece of
sandpaper, rough edges everywhere, lean, high acidity and too greenish for
my liking. There is an odd funk in this, like something wrapped up in
clingwrap. 84/100. Tasted May 2009.
Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Margaret River, WA
$95-115. Having tasted through the past decade of this release, I wonder why
I'm disappointed with the 2006 release.
The aroma profile is fragile as the fruit dissipates all too quickly. This
is on the lighter-side of medium-bodied wines, almost to the point of
thinking this is watered down. The fruit disappears by the time the tannins
kick in. This is a hint of fruit on the finish but I have been left with a
hollow sensation. Quick, someone give me a drink! 86/100. Tasted May 2009.
Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Merlot 2006, Margaret River, WA
$80-100. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and touches of Petit Verdot,
Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Matured for 15 months in 40% new French
barriques. A wafty effort and clearly a wine that doesn't warrant this
price. There is some amount of dark fruit but it's not smooth and feels like
a couple of barrels merely sifted together then stirred with the soiled head
of a pheasant. 85/100. Tasted May 2009.
20th June 2009
Chateau Poitevin Cru Bourgeois 2005, Bordeaux
$30-40. There is plenty of value to be found at the cru bourgeois levels in
the 2005 vintage. Poitevin is a blend of Merlot (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon
(40%) and petit verdot. Ripe, dark berry fruit with the tinge of herbs
typical of Cabernet Sauvignon and even a hint of oak shavings. Firm, dry
velvet tannins confers the robustness to this wine. Nice finish. 90/100.
Tasted May 2009.
Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2003, Bordeaux
$280-350. This lovely 2003 Pauillac is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Petit Verdot.
Rich aromas of blackberry, cherries and smokey liquorice. This full-bodied
wine is driven by elegant blackberry flavours held together in a
multilayered structure wrapped by seamless tannins. While its ready to be
drunk now, with history on its side, there is little doubt the 2003 release
will last for 20+ years. 95/100. Tasted May 2009.
19th June 2009
Honig Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Napa Valley
$50-66. Dark currant, cherry candy with rich swirly fruit flavours of
blackcurrant. There is the feeling of a higher touch of alcohol, but this
has a nice, even finish. Not a keeper, drink over 5 years. 88/100. Tasted
May 2009.
Ramey Jericho Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Napa Valley
$150-195. The last vintage of Jericho Canyon to be released.
This has an intriguing nose of charcoal, dark chocolate and black currants.
A Lovely, full-bodied wine with flavours ebbing layer after layer. Great
stuff! Drink over 10+ years. 93/100. Tasted May 2009.
Forman Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Napa Valley
$110-135. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A
wallop of dark fruit, sweet spice and cedar wood. Rich flavours, the tannins
hit your palate like a block, but the fruit is strong enough to push
through. Load up on this and forget about it for 10 years before enjoying
over the following 10. 91/100. Tasted May 2009.
4th June 2009
Some wines by the Farrs, Gary and Nick, from recent tastings. Gary
has reputed himself with cool climate Bannockburn Pinot Noirs armed with
experience from working vintage at Domaine Dujac. Son Nick has released his
own 'Farr Rising' label these days having learnt some tricks of the trade by
assisting at Bannockburn. Overall, the 2007 releases have been
disappointing, though not surprising with the warmer weather and continued
drought conditions. Yields were down to 0.85tons/acre and the wines are
actually decent given the difficult circumstances.
Viognier by Farr 2007, Bannockburn
$50-60. A simple, linear wine with a hint of the exuberance that a typical
viognier should have. 84/100.
Chardonnay by Farr 2007, Bannockburn
$55-65. A Chardonnay driven by mineral characteristics but very primary and
lacking in personality and depth.
85/100.
Sangreal by Farr Pinot Noir 2007, Bannockburn
$60-70. ~15 year old pinot noir vines. A volatile cherry aroma that
unfortunately doesn't last the length, red berries, cherry oak, hint of
stalks. A weak pinot noir that is lacking in any interesting complexity. 84/100.
Tout Pres by Farr Pinot
Noir
2007,
Bannockburn
$90-110. A densely planted
vineyard just under 10 years of age. A much more enjoyable aromatic profile
than the Sangreal, it's more whole and rounded with hints of dark berry
hidden in warm forest undergrowth. However, my interest is lost thereafter
as this wine lacks complexity and any finish dissipates all too soon. 87/100.
Shiraz by Farr 2007, Bannockburn
$55-65. ~2% viognier blended. A definite cool climate shiraz with soft
aromas of earthy spice, reduced fruit but lacks the weighty component often
found in Australian shiraz. Burnt red fruit flavours, and I'm sensing an
extra touch of sweetness, from the viognier perhaps? The tannins are long
but abit overbearing for the fruit at the moment. Might improve over 5
years. 87/100.
Farr Rising Chardonnay
2007
$30-35. No fruit from the
Bannockburn vineyard was harvest for the 2007 release. Instead, fruit was
sourced from the Mornington Peninsula and Adelaide Hills. The wine was aged
in 30% new French oak for 12 months. A restrained wine with peach and nutty
notes no doubt associated with the barrel ferment. This blend is an
interesting attempt but the wine is obviously confused. It lacks depth and
is struggling to figure out that personality it's trying to exude. 82/100.
Farr Rising Geelong Pinot Noir 2007, Bannockburn
$35-40. Aged in 30% new French oak, this medium bodied wine has dark fruit
overlayed with sweet spice. Pinot Noir made in a reduced style with gamey
notes and ripe tannins. 87/100.
Merricks Creek Pinot Noir
2007, Mornington Peninsula
$40-50. Whole fruit pressed
with 25% whole bunch, cool-fermented for 16 days followed by maturation for
19 months in 50% new French oak. Earthy aromas, savoury with raspberry and a
hint of crushed herb. This fruit forward drink does have a finish that seems
a little out of sorts for me. 87/100.
Merricks Creek Close Planted Pinot Noir 2007, Mornington Peninsula
$55-65. Whole fruit crush with 20% whole bunch, cold-ferment for 16 days
before 19 months of maturation in 100% new French oak. More intense nose
than the other Farr Pinot Noir releases. Dark, red current fruit with hint
of earthiness. The tannins are soft but a touch out of sync at the moment
probably due to its recent bottling. A decent drink. 87/100.
Merricks Creek Close Planted Pinot Noir
2005, Mornington Peninsula
The 2005 closed planted pinot
noir is clearly 4 shades lighter than the 2007. Much lighter in colour, yet
this surprises by possessing much richer and more fluent red berry fruit
characteristics. The tannin weight is balanced providing this wine a good
backbone and it should evolve a further step over the next 2-3 years and
drink well over the next 10 years. 88/100.
Merricks Creek Close Planted Pinot Noir 2004, Mornington Peninsula
Lighter in colour than the 2007 release but clearly darker than the 2005 is
the 2004 release of Merricks Creek Pinot Noir. Much more depth in this one,
with dark red berry, fresh bark and toasted spice. Nice long finish. This
should be fine for the next 5-10 years. 89/100.
5th April 2009
Standish Relic 2006, Barossa
$80-100. This has 2.5% viognier in it. Tar black purple colour, sweet
viognier lifts are evident, touch of sweet white pepper, black olive and
dark red currants. Purple lilac flowers, blackcurrant fruit flavours. Grippy
firm tannins still amalgamating. Beautiful and appreciable to drink now,
should easily shine for 10 years. 93-94/100.
Standish Shiraz 2005, Barossa
$80-100. Black, black ruby! Purple blossom, blackcurrant and a touch of
black pepper. Rich intense plum, blackcurrants and dark berries. Youthful
tannins will come together eventually. Keep for 5 years, drink 2012 - 2022.
94/100.
Rockford Hoffman SVS Shiraz 2000, Barossa
A special vineyard selection made by Chris Ringland and Chris O'Callaghan.
14.0%alc, black ruby colour with heady aromas of ripe raspberry and dark
currants. Still a very young wine with rich, intense currant flavours. The
fruit retains in the mid palate, then fades off end the tannins come through
on the finish. Thoroughly enjoyable. 93/100.
Noon Eclipse
2007, McLaren Vale
Ruby black, with earthy brown
reddish edges. This needs at least an hour to open up in the decanter. Heady
aromatics overflow the glass, blackcurrant and blueberry core with
liquorice, touch of sweet clove and tanned leather. Rich dark fruit flavours
come in wave after wave. A hint of grippy tannins initially but these fade
off, overpowered by the warmth of the fruit. Great length of aftertaste,
almost a full minutes. This will keep for 10-12 years easy. 94+/100.
First Drop The Big Blind 2006, Adelaide Hills
$18. A blend of Nebbiolo and Barbera. Earthy brick brown-red colour. At
first whiff, yup, this doesn't contain any typical Barossa or Australian
varietals. Roast beef juices with caramelised onion, very organic, savoury,
might even be good with seared tuna steaks, hint of fres crushed
peppercorns. Typical dry lean tannins of Nebbiolo, intense dark fruit
flavours. Soft finish. Good with meaty, tomato based pasta. 90/100.
4th April 2009: Big wines for lean times
Australia's interpretation of the Southern Rhone, Spinifex has
consistently put out high-quality wines made with old-school traditional
methodology at prices that won't bust your belt. Peter Schell has offers the
perfect solution for your wine cravings in lean times.
Spinifex Esprit 2006, Barossa
$25-30.
Grenache 40%, Shiraz 34%, Mouverdre
8%, Cinsault 12%, Carignan 6%.
A step up from the Papillon in intensity, flavour and textural complexity.
22 months of oak maturation has created a feel-bodied wine with red cherry,
touch of cassis, dried herbs and spice. Even, fine tannins provide good
structure and support to the wine. A tight and focused finish. Drink until
2015. 92/100.
Spinifex Indigene 2006, Barossa
$40-50.
55%
mataro and 45% shiraz. This is like the capable female head of the
household, you get the feeling she's in charge of things but goes about it
quietly. One whiff of this, mataro! A complex aromatic profile of soft
stewed black cherry, pepper, hazelnut. Mid - full bodied drink with black
plum, prunes, and a touch of bitter dark chocolate. This is dense but there
is a fine edge to it all. Drink now until 2020. 94/100.
Spinifex Shiraz Viognier 2005, Barossa
$50-55. 95% shiraz, 5% viognier. Intense dark berry aromas with spice.
Full-bodied, rich and intense flavours of blackcurrant, plum, cherry, hint
of ground coffee. A balanced drink, well-structured with fine silky tannins.
Drink until 2020. 95/100.
Trignon Gigondas 2005, Gigondas
$40-45.
Grenache 65%, Shiraz 25%, Mouverdre
and Cinsault 10%.
Matured in 50% foudres/barriques and 50% cement tanks. Bright ruby, perfumed
bouquet of red berries, hint of cherry, lavender, black olive. Broad
flavours of bitter cherry and blackcurrant. A good effort and youthful
tannins certainly don't make this a subtle drink. Probably needs a few years
to come together. Keep for 5-7 years before drinking until 2020. 90/100.
Remejeanne Les Genevries
2004, Cotes du Rhone
$40-45. From the higher
altitude (200-280m) of the village of Sabran. A blend of primarily Grenache
with Shiraz and Mourvèdre. Strong white pepper, savoury beef stock, strong
herbs and spice. Medium-bodied, strong aftertaste. Good with roast. Drink by
2010. 91/100.
14th March 2009:
Veneto at The Montague
The Montague is one of
the most unassuming pub/restaurant establishments in Melbourne where you can
indulge in high quality beers, wines and food without the distractions of
noisy patrons. Here, you can relax inside reading the Saturday paper over
wonderful salty cod balls with aioli or soak up the Sunday sunshine with a
nice, crisp beer with friends. This time, I was there for a friend's
birthday luncheon, and was taking advantage of the wine-paired lunches that
the restaurant side was putting on together with Prince Wine Store.
The region of focus was Veneto, the third largest wine
producing region in Italy encompassing 30 DOC zones.
| The Risotto di Scampi was cooked to near perfection, probably only requiring just a touch longer as most grains had the underdone white core visible. The combination of flavour and texture is vital for risotto, and this was prepared with sufficient stock such that it wasn't dry but not too soggy or sticky either. Yet you could taste the rich flavours from the stock. The sizable prawn was fresh, touch of lime and parsley provided a lift to the typically strong and heavier seafood flavours. Bits of mussel and scampi meat was a balanced addition. |
 |
| The Pieropan Soave Classico Superiore DOC 2007 is from the DOC of Soave, south east of Verona. 85% Garganega and 15% Trebbiano di Soava (an ancient native variety). Nice straw colour with a greenish hue, delicate nose with floral notes and a hint of almond. Very nice rich flavours with firm acidity allowed it to hold its own with the seafood risotto, then fade off cleanly. ~$30. 88/100. | |
 |
The Fegato di vitelli, cipolla scremata e spinaci appassiti (calves liver, creamed onion and wilted spinach) was a very appetising dish with a pan-fried liver that retained a slightly chewy texture, wasn't over-cooked and still had the lovely pink colour in the centre with some red juices. The weighty liver flavours were balanced nicely by the sweet caramelised onion. The bacon with the base of mash and spinach were good accompaniments. |
| The Speri Valpolicella
Classico Superiore 'La Roverina' DOC 2006 is a blend of 70%
Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara and 5% other native
grapes from a single vineyard. This wine was aged for more than a
year post-fermentation. Ruby red, a rich aroma profile with dense
berry flavours that carry over to the medium-bodied palate. It
doesn't overwhelm which is why it's perfect for calf liver with a
rich base sauce. ~$25. 87/100. The Valpolicella DOC is trying to shake off its infamy for producing overly commercialised lifeless wines. The region has since turned a corner and is on the slow ascension to regaining it's previous lustre. This region is also known for semi-drying racks of grapes before fermentation. The resulting wines are classified as the Recioto di Soave (sweet white made from Garganega), Recioto della Valpolicella (sweet red made from the three local varietals) or most famously, Amarone (with the sugars fermented out of the wine). |
|
5th March 2009:
Paradise IV, Geelong, Victoria
This is one winery I'm not familiar with. Winemaker Doug Neal has
drawn praises from Campbell Mattinson of The Wine Front who expressed his
keen anticipation of these 2007 releases. But surely the Geelong climate is
all wrong for shiraz and cabernet sauvignon? Well, only one way to find
out... here comes the tasting...
Paradise IV Batesford Shiraz Cabernet 2006, Geelong
$30. There's an earthy funk to this one, with cherry as the major fruit
aroma, mingled with faint herby notes. A moderate fruit load, the tannins
are on the higher side for a soft shiraz blend. I think this is still a
disjointed drink some what, but who knows how this will develop. 88/100.
Paradise IV Chardonnay 2007, Geelong
$40. 14-year old chardonnay vines, affected by the frost that set in during
Sept Oct 2006 followed by the lack of rain in summer. 80% of the total crush
underwent malolactic fermentation. Matured in 20% new oak barrels where it
underwent further malolactic fermentation, and the wine sat on lees sans
stirring until it was ready to be bottled. Stored in underground cellar for
1 year before release. Firm but sharpish acidity in this one for me, and I
can taste the greenish fruit on the lean palate. This is clearly not my
style of chardonnay as I prefer my chardonnays to be open and expressive
whilst maintaining a decent fruit load. It's all about balancing the fruit
with acidity without having to compromise one for the other. 86-87/100.
Paradise IV Dardel Shiraz 2006, Geelong
Ok, there's fruit, and there's tannin.. that's about it for me.. 87/100.
Paradise IV Dardel Shiraz 2007, Geelong
$40. The 14-year old vines were heavily cut back at the end of the 2006
vintage, and I think there is a slight improvement, coupled with more
selection for this 2007 offering. From vines sited on clay soil on
mid-slope, drought has affected the fruit resulting in a small quantity.
Whole berry ferment in one tonne open fermenters with 1% viognier to give it
some lift. Pressed after 8 days and matured in 40% new oak where it finished
malolactic fermentation. Racked twice, stored underground for 10 months
prior to release. A darker wine than the 2006, more concentrated in
flavours. Doug thinks the 2008 will be even better than the 2007. 88/100.
Paradise IV Chaumont 2007, Geelong
$40. Made from 14-20 year old Cabernet and Cab Franc vines with 6-14 year
old shiraz. Cold soaked for 4 days, then fermentation occurred over the
following 9 days before pressed off into barrel where malo was completed.
Matured in 40% new oak, 30% 1-year oak, rest 2-3 years. The greenish
cabernet characteristic is prominent, mellowed out by the Cab Franc. I'm not
convinced the shiraz is contributing much significant overall. 88/100.
2nd March 2009:
Ata Rangi (New Zealand)
Ata Rangi (www.atarangi.co.nz)
is one of five 5-star wineries in Robert Parker's book and is synonymous
with New Zealand Pinot Noir. Based on the North Island in Martinborough just
a short drive from Wellington, this operation sited in a low rain-fall area
has earned a well-deserved reputation for consistently producing Pinot Noir
of high-quality but it would be a mistake to overlook their white wines. The
2007 vintage produced very lean wines with high tannin levels that are only
just starting to reveal themselves. I think the verdict is still very much
out on this one. The 2008 vintage was again a victim of the weather, with
frost affected vines and low rains resulting in a 50% reduction in yield.
Good vineyard and harvest management will result in wines with expressive
aromatics and robust fruit flavours.
Ata Rangi Sauvignon Blanc 2008,
Martinborough NZ
$25. A 'curvy' drink that is rich and fleshy. Hand-picked fruit from 5
blocks, half of which was cold soaked for a few hours before drain and
press. 10% was fermented in 3-year old oak, the rest in stainless steel. The
wine sits with 13.5% alc and is high in acidity. Passionfruit and citrus
flavours standout in this simple drink, not to say that it's linear. Good
with food. Drink now till 2010. 87/100.
Ata Rangi Lismore Pinot Gris 2008,
Martinborough NZ
$40. Made in the richer style resembling Alsace but slightly higher in
alcohol at 13%. Fruit is hand-picked and pressed with a membrane press. 20%
fermented in 3-year old barrels. Pleasing mango and lychee flavours with
aroma of orange buds. Very nice for a casual drink. Drink now. 88/100.
Ata Rangi Petrie Chardonnay 2008,
Martinborough NZ
$30. Fermented in 25% new Burgundy barriques, 30% underwent full malolactic
fermentation and aged on lees for 7 months. Light aroma of browning butter
seasoned with a sprinkle of sweet Chinese spice. A dry mineral introduction
followed by an explosion of lemon and lime flavours. Drink now till 2012.
91/100.
Ata Rangi Criaghall Chardonnay 2008,
Martinborough NZ
$60. Fruit from 20+ year old, low-yielding Mendoza clones. Indigenous yeast
fermented in 22% new oak with lees stirring. 60% malolactic ferment, aged on
lees for 9 months. A complex nose of white peach, hint of melon and a lift
of lime. This is a very fruity drink, sweet and voluptuous. Drink now till
2012. 89/100.
Ata Rangi Celebre 2005,
Martinborough NZ
$45. A blend of 30% merlot, 35% syrah, 35% cabernet franc/sauvignon. Dark
red colour, drying red berries with sweet herbs and clove. Hint of liquorice
even. Well integrated tannins, a bouncy well-rounded fruit core with good
length in the finish. 91/100.
Ata Rangi Crimson Pinot Noir 2008,
Martinborough NZ
$32. 100% whole berry crush underwent 2 -7 days pre-ferment maceration.
Constantly hand-plunged during 2 weeks of tank ferment. 9 months in 25% new
French oak for complete malolactic fermentaion. 14% alc. Cherry with wild
berry fruit in the background. Red plum and cherry flavours dominate and are
held in check by the even sappy tannins. There are the obvious rough edges
to this but is an easy drink overall. Drink now till 2010. 86/100.
Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2007,
Martinborough NZ
$90. From the extremely low-yielding 2007 vintage due to bad weather in the
flowering season, fruit bunches and berries were small, so skins to juice
ratio was high resulting in high levels of tannins. ~28-year old vines of
various PN clones, 10% whole berry crush spent 5-8 days pre-ferment
maceration. Malolactic fermentation was completed in the 12 months spent in
25% new French oak. 14% alc. Black cherry and dark berry fruit aromas with a
dense but very stingy fruit core supported by supple tannins. Not bad given
the conditions of vintage. Might open in 3-4 years but won't make the most
cellar-worthy list. Drink 2012 - 2016. 91/100.
Ata Rangi Kahu Botrytis Riesling 2008,
Martinborough NZ
$45. 130g/L RS. Very nice nose of ripe nectarine, sweet talc powder and
spice. This has nice flavours but lacks texture and has turned out to be
quite the syrup drink. 87/100.
An extra filler: Six Gates Majnun Shiraz 2006, Barossa
 |
$23, 1000 cases produced. The 2006 release is a great improvement over the inaugural 2004. Fruit sourced from Patch 4 of the Six Gates vineyard underwent open ferment followed by 26 months in oak. A deep, black ruby colour, good dark spice and plum aromas with a touch of menthol. A balanced fruit load with the fruit and peppery flavours smoothening out very well, backed by robust toasty tannins. This should develop nicely over the next 3-5 years, and will be interesting to follow-up. 91/100. Tasted Oct 08. |
23rd February 2009: Southern Egyptians, Pyramid Valley (New Zealand)
European summer sun-baked Americans slashing through acres of
Marlborough vineyards and producing articulate wines showcasing the concept
of terroir. Mike Weersing has even thrown up a challenge to the
fuller-styled Hunters by offering a lovely single-block Semillon dripping in
style and personality. An establishment that has earned praise from Jancis Robinson
MW and Matt Kramer (WS), this is certainly one to keep on eye on, although
at their current price tags, more value can be sought elsewhere.
Pyramid Valley Kerner Pinot Blanc 2007, Marlborough NZ
$45-55. Cropped at 3.8 tonnes/acre, this 550 case production is from a small
site in the Waihopai Valley. Hand-picked and whole bunch pressed, this
underwent fermentation by indigenous yeasts for 13months in old French
barriques and puncheons. Pale gold in colour, nose of candied orange, clove
and baked apricot with a touch of burn. Rich fruit, fleshy and rounded on
the tongue to finish, an off-dry wine. Nice. 89/100.
Pyramid Valley Hille Semillon 2007, Marlborough NZ
$45-55. 450 cases produced. From the stony soils of the Brancott Valley, this
was cropped to 3.2 tonnes/acre and hand-picked over 4 passes. Whole bunch
pressed, 13 months of fermentation by indigenous yeasts in 50% new French
oak 500 litre puncheons. 95% Semillon with 5% sauvignon blanc. Straw yellow,
nose of fresh herbs, chervil, fennel, preserved lemon. Persistent flavours
of lemon curd. 89+/100.
Pyramid Valley Orton Gewurztraminer 2007, Hawkes Bay NZ
$50-60. 230 cases produced. 30-year old vines on a 1 acre heavy clay site
yielding 3 tonnes of fruit that were sadly uprooted after this final
vintage. Whole bunch pressed, 7 months of indigenous yeast fermentation in
20% new French oak. Broad, expansive notes of rose musk and cardamom, a
moderate 14% alc and a touch lower in acidity renders this lean on flavours.
88/100.
Pyramid Valley Eaton Family Pinot Noir 2007, Marlborough NZ
$80-95. 850 cases produced. From the dense clay soils of the Omaka Valley,
close planted on a steep North facing slope and cropped at 2.4 tonnes/acre.
Hand-picked, 85% destemmed, initial 5-7 days of soak followed by 27 day
cuvaison. 15 months on lees in 33% new French barriques. Light ruby colour,
notes of cherry and nutmeg spice but low on fruit and light-weight tannins.
14.2% alc. The last of this label as the site has been sold off. 87/100.
Pyramid Valley Calvert Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Central Otago NZ
$85-100. 140 cases produced. A biodynamic site in Bannockburn sitting on
schist and quartz sand that produced only 0.7 tonnes/acre due to poor
weather at flowering. 85% destemmed, 5-6 days of soak and 27 cuvaison. 15
months on lees in 33% new French barriques and bottled unfined and
unfiltered on the winter equinox June 2008. Darker than the Eaton PN, ruby
with a shade of black with blackberry, blackcurrant and iris. Rounded fruit
core in the mouth, quite layered, primarily black fruit, ripe blackcurrant
and a touch of black pepper. 91-92/100.
Pyramid Valley Angel Flower Pinot Noir 2006, North Canterbury NZ
$125-150. 60 cases produced. A 1.7 acre clay-limestone, east facing site
with 6-year old vines cropped at 1 tonne/acre. 100% destemmed, 20 months on
lees in 33% new French barriques. An odd colour, earthy swill with a shade
of ruby. Nose of red currants, musky spice, smoke and wild fur. Deep
flavours of wild red fruit and toasted spice stirred into an earthy brew.
Held together delicately despite the robust characteristics. Would present a
decent challenge to the top 1er crus of Burgundy. 93-94/100.
Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2006, North Canterbury NZ
$125-150. 30 cases produced. 1.5 acres of 6-year old vines, north facing on
denser, shallower clay-limestone soils less in clay and active lime than the
Angel Flower. Made in the same way as the Angel Flower to bring out the
differences of the two wines. Dark ruby colour, light touch of cherry,
perfumed wood and raspberry. A red fruit core with sweet spice that persists
with a touch of tannins to prop it up during the soft, lingering finish.
92/100.
Pyramid Valley Riverbrook Riesling 2007, Marlborough NZ
$40-50. 280 cases produced. Cropped at 3.5 tonnes/acre, vines planted on
silt-bound gravel site were hand-picked in 2 passes to obtain fruit of
different ripeness. 85% was clean, small berry, loose bunches which were
fermented nearly dry. The remaining 15% was late-picked to allow the growth
of noble rot. 9 months of dry fermentation and 13 months ferment for the
botrytis-affected fruit. Relatively low in alcohol, 12.5% with 20g/L of
residual sugar. Very faint, white gold-like colour, notes of pink guava,
pineapple and a hint of oil. Light and not luscious, slightly dry and a good
accompaniment to fresh figs. 88/100.
Pyramid Valley Lebecca Riesling 2007, Marlborough NZ
$40-50. 350 cases produced. Vines planted in deep, silted gravel ground in Rapaura, cropped at 3.7 tonnes/acre. Ripe clean golden fruit not affected by
botrytis. Hand-picked and whole bunch pressed, with light settling.
Fermentation ended at 5 months and allowed to sit on lees for a further 8
months. 11% alc with 34g/L residual sugar. Pale white gold in colour, floral
notes mingled with pear, apple and waxy talc. Sweet, yet balanced with light
fresh fruit flavours and a pleasing finish. 90/100.
22nd February 2009: Casual Italians
A great accompaniment to our bbq'd chops and lamb rosemary sausages
on a warm summer's day by the lake, causal Italians are the drink of choice
at a time of faltering sales of big price-tagged wines mirroring the growth
charts of the world economies. Even attempts at moderately discounting
pre-arrivals haven't swayed the average wine consumer and Australian
merchants should be sweating the difficult times ahead with yet another
drought-affected vintage in Victoria and South Australia (where January
rainfall was 0.4mm!).
Pasquale Pelissero is a boutique operation located in Neive, Barbaresco and produces ~1200 cases off 4 hectares of vineyard. From it's first release in 1974, this family owned winery has passed from father to daughter and persists in its organic philosophy while maintaining an ever increasing quality slope in their wines.
Pasquale Pelissero Dolcetto d'Alba Crosa 2007
$20. Fruity aromas, primarily dark cherry with a touch of spice, rich red
fruit flavours on the pallet backed by ripe tannins. There is a moderate
level of acidity in this one, offering it a 'crisp' edge and the fruit
flavours manage to keep it together going into the finish. Best served
slightly chilled. 88/100. Tasted Feb 2009.
Pasquale Pelissero Barbaresco Bricco San Giuliano 2005
$50. This is a simple, straight-forward drink with sweet, red cherry perfume
tagging onto a similarly vibrant red fruit core. There is good balance of
the rich fruit with dry and smoky tannins. This is certainly one to cellar,
but I'm not sure when it will reveal it's true self; more importantly, how
much fruit will be left by then? Let's give it 5 years. 91/100. Tasted Feb
2009.
Pico Maccario is located in Mombaruzzo, Piedmont and the Rose Shield is held aloft by by brothers Pico and Vitaliana Maccario who inherited a healthy 70 hectares of vineyard from their grandfather. Pico oversees the winemaking duties while also dedicated to the modernisation of the operation, continual expansion and the study of new and old clones. This is the largest sole ownership in the region and boasts 55 hectares of Barbera.
Maccario 'Lavignone' Barbera d'Asti 2006
$30. From 5-year old vines, this light and simple drink has a nose of
Japanese cherry blossom tea, with clean, pure fruit flavours packed into a
medium-bodied texture. A decent level of acidity holds it together, there
are no layers to wrap yourself into. What you taste is what you get. 88/100.
Tasted Feb 2009.
Maccario 'Tre Roveri' Barbera d'Asti 2004
$40. From 60-year old vines and aged for 12months in French oak barrels of
varying size. This is on a completely different level to the Lavignone.
There is an added dimension, aromas of dark red fruit, rose talc powder,
cherry oak-like liquor. Quite high in acidity which holds the pure fruit
flavours together without the tannins taking off any shine on the finish.
Very good quality for this price, nice with grilled herb chicken. 91-92/100.
Tasted Feb 2009.
Archives
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Artisans
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Palate wetters
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