A crop of 25 Tassie wineries were on-hand at the Intercontinental
Rialto as part of Tasmania Unbottled organised by Wine Industry Tasmania.
The majority of wines were from the Tamar, Derwent and Coal Valleys but the
other regions were also reasonably represented.
Rather shockingly for me personally, the take-home message of this event was
not about the wines, but rather an unmentioned indication much like the
political worm that wriggles towards that disdainful controversy-courting
topic of climate change. For anyone who claims that 5 years ago, they
foresaw that Tasmanian Pinot Noirs would creep towards a monstrous 15%
alcohol, then I'm calling them out as being liars. This is no knock on big,
full-frontal, pompous pinot noirs; I love those. BUT it's all about
obtaining that refined balance of fruit ripeness and acidity. That is the
quintessential grail of pinot noir and I thought that most of the pinot
noirs I tasted this time were very ordinary.
Even more heart breaking were the neutral emotions the Rieslings evoked in
me. I am adamant that Rieslings have been the most consistent wine for
Tasmania in terms of quality in recent years. However, I felt generally let
down by the overall quality on show and I don't know if it can simply be
attributed to the vintage. I will leave final judgement to your individual
palates.
Now, there were several positives on the day with a few wines of excellent
quality, not just for drinking but some with good cellaring potential. The
following names are probably not filed under 'National Secrets' but as a
reminder, keep your eyes out for Josef Chromy (Tamar Valley), Heemskerk
(Coal Valley), Stefano Lubiana Wines (Derwent Valley) and Glaetzer-Dixon
Family Winery. One notable absentee was Frogmore Creek.
Part 1: The Chardonnays
Bay of Fires Chardonnay 2008
Nose of lemon crud forming, favours of bitter butter and lemon rind. A
simple linear wine. 86/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Bream Creek Chardonnay 2008
A lean wine with clean grassy notes and hazelnut. Unripe peach flavours,
this is a balanced, grounded wine. 89/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled
2010.
Cape Bernier Chardonnay 2009
Lemon/lime tic-tac candy casing nose. A simple wine. 86/100. Tasted at
Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Cape Bernier Chardonnay 2008
Oaky, mushroom nose, hint of savoury lemon sauce. Good rich fruit on the
palate. Lingering finish. 89/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Derwent Estate Chardonnay 2009
Fresh, round-sculpted nose with notes of peach, grass and minerality.
Balanced ripening acidity with rich baby stonefruit flavours. Lovely finish.
92/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Goaty Hill Chardonnay 2008
A simple linear wine. 86/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Heemskerk Coal Valley Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2008
Nose of ripening greenish lemons with a sense of the waxy rind. Rich
lemon-lime citrus fruit flavours. A balanced wine that's pleasing in all
aspects. 91-92/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Home Hill Kelly's Reserve Chardonnay 2007
Clean nose, peppery stir-fried swiss brown mushrooms. An initial attack of
rich fruit flavours propped by a block of ripe acidity. This fades like
falling off a cliff. 88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Josef Chromy Chardonnay 2007
Soft rounded nose, rich peppered mushroom, savoury preserved lemon. Nice oak
on the palate gives this good weight. Well-structured lemon, lemon-rind
flavours with a long finish. 90-91/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Moorilla Muse Chardonnay 2008
Clean nose, soft lemon aromas with pepper in the background. Nice balanced
fruit citrus flavours, the roundness of the oak really gives this wine a
lovely balanced weight. Well-structured. 90/100. Tasted at Tasmania
Unbottled 2010.
Pirie Estate Chardonnay 2008
Nice lemon fruit, white buds and a hint of raw nuts on the nose. Clean fruit
flavours with balanced acidity and a zippy finish. Nice. 89+/100. Tasted at
Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Springvale Reserve Chardonnay 2009
A nice fragrance of grassy lemon aromas. Ripe acidity, freshly squeezed
lemon juice with a hint of crushed mint leaf. Fresh, nice finish. 89/100.
Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Springvale Chardonnay 2010
A tight fruity Chardonnay that has ripe fruit flavours balanced with
refreshing acidity. A good drink. 88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Stefano Lubiana Chardonnay 2009
The lemon tart aromas cut right through the oaky block. Soft lemon, lemon
rind fruit flavours. A very approachable wine. 88/100. Tasted at Tasmania
Unbottled 2010.
Stefano Lubiana Chardonnay 2008
Clean, lemon tart notes with loads of ripe acidity. Nicely balanced with
firm structure. 89-90/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Sugarloaf Ridge Chardonnay 2007
A buttery nose, the fruit is there but perhaps a touch out of whack?
86-87/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Sugarloaf Ridge Chardonnay 2008
A step-up in quality on the 2007 release. Mushroom creamy, butter sauce
nose, Good lemon, preserved lime flavours. A focussed wine, good structure
and balanced. Nice. 89/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Tamar Ridge Kayena Vineyard Chardonnay 2008
Soft oak notes but a linear, soft chardonnay otherwise. 86/100. Tasted at
Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Part 2: The Rieslings
Bay of Fires Riesling 2009, North East region
Clean notes of lemon, grapefruit and spring fresh crushed grass. Nice green
apple, lemon rind flavours with a waxy texture. Good finish. Drink now.
89/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Bream Creek Riesling VGR 2008, East Coast
Aroma of freshly squeezed lime juice with a hint of orange blossom. Rich
fruit flavours balanced by good, ripe acidity. A nice wine. Drink now.
90/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Derwent Estate Riesling 2009, Derwent Valley
Nice lemon and lime zest nose with rich citrus flavours to boot. Good level
of acidity, this is a balanced wine with med+ length finish. Potentially
interesting to keep for the long haul. Drink now -2015. 92/100. Tasted at
Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Glaetzer-Dixon Uberblanc Riesling 2009, Coal Valley
A developing nose with notes of lemon peel tucked under the kero. Lemon/lime
flavours with a hint of ginger on the finish. Not bad. Drink now - 2015.
90/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Glaetzer-Dixon Uberblanc Riesling 2010, Coal Valley
In its infancy and coming to terms with its impending release. Banana esters
are still lingering with lemon lime citrus but the palate has rich acidity,
lemon and grapefruit with a dash of minerality. Nice. Drink 2011 - 2021.
91/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Goaty Hill Riesling 2009, Tamar Valley
A sweet grapefruit nose, right through into the flavours with an added
squeeze of lime. Drink now. 87/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Heemskerk Riversdale Riesling 2008, Coal Valley
Fermented in old oak and sitting on lees imparted an extra dimension to this
wine. Very lovely soft perfume. a well-crafted wine with restrained
lemon/lime flavours, dash of minerality with layers of textured acidity.
Drink now - 2020. 91/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Holm Oak Riesling 2009, Tamar Valley
A soft nose that is a mix of tart, grapefruit pastry, lemon flesh. At 12.3%
alc, easy drinking. Drink now. 87/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Josef Chromy Riesling 2009, Tamar Valley
An honest wine that presents a fresh nose with clean fruit flavours.
Drink now - 2013. 88-89/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Native Point Riesling 2009, Tamar Valley
A developing nose with the gasoline whiff, grapefruit rind and lime flowers.
An easy drink that is relatively well-balanced with lemon-grapefruit
flavours. Drink now. 87-88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Moorilla Muse Riesling 2008, Derwent Valley
Soft lime blossom and grapefruit, with a hint of minerality. But this is
flat on the palate and lacks the fruit to balance the bold and much riper
acids. 87/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Moorilla Praxis Riesling 2009, Derwent Valley
Nose of mandarin, lemon rind, sweet spice. A recurrent theme? The fruit load
is a let down and doesn't match up well with the ripe acids. 87/100. Tasted
at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Pirie South Riesling 2008, Tamar Valley
A shy lemon rind nose with ripe lemon acidity and flavours. A simple wine
that isn't too bad. Drink now. 87/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Pooley Wines Riesling 2008, Coal Valley
A good, straight-forward riesling with largely lemon characters and a hint
of lime citrus. It's got a fine mineral, stoney edge. Drink now. 88/100.
Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Stefano Lubiana Estate Alfresco Riesling 2009, Derwent Valley
Soft nose of grapefruit and lemon pith, a waxy rind feel with a grapefruit
bitterness on the finish. Drink now. 88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled
2010.
Tamar Ridge Kayena Vineyard Riesling 2009, Tamar Valley
Nice pamelo aromatics with a flash of white florals. But a bit fat on the
palate for me. Drink now. 87/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Part 3: Sweet wines
Holm Oak Riesling TGR 2010, Tamar Valley
A lovely nose of lime blossom, baby grass, crushed stone. A sweet wine, 8%
alc with candied orange, soft lemon/lime flavours with fine edgy acidity. A
controlled wine that is in sync with itself. Drink now - 2017. 92-93/100.
Josef Chromy Botrytis Riesling 2009, Tamar Valley
Lovely beeswax, pineapple and mango flavours, good sugar load that is
perfectly balanced with the acidity. A rich wine that is very, very
enjoyable. Drink now - 2020. 95/100.
Josef Chromy SGR Delikat Riesling 2008, Tamar Valley
Dry, developed kero nose with lemon fruit backed up with minerality. A sweet
wine with nice rich fruit flavours that is balanced with appropriate level
of acidity. A pleasing subtle finish. 8.5% alc. Drink now - 2014. 91/100.
Pooley Wines Late Harvest Riesling 2010, Coal Valley
Soft aromas of limestone, musk and lemon blossom. Sweet simple flavours,
certainly not a complex wine. Has the sugars but perhaps lacks a sufficient
level of acidity. Drink now. 86-87/100.
Part 4: The other whites
Clemens Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2010
~$30, Oct '10 release. Blended with Semillon. Nice grassy varietal nose and
lychee. The structure is certainly more plump with the presence of Semillon.
Well-balanced, a warm Sauvignon Blanc for a colder day (that sounds odd!)
89/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Josef Chromy Gewürztraminer 2008
Spicy pineapple and melon notes. Dry wine with clean acidity balancing off a
nice fruit load. 89/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Josef Chromy Sauvignon Blanc 2008
A suppressed nose with hints of flint? Oddly this screamed out for some
Morbier to me. Lovely rich, lime flint flavours. Nice! 90/100. Tasted at
Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Stefano Lubiana Pinot Grigio 2009
Clean, lean and focussed wine with a broad aromatic nose. Rich fruit and
spicy flavours. 88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Stefano Lubiana Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Minty honeydew heart candy flavours with a hint of passionfruit. Med+
intensity flavours, a richer wine than the typical with even broad palate.
2000 cases. 89-90/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Bream Creek Late Picked Schönburger 2006
Very surprised to this is German variety here. It's a Pinot Noir based
crossing with light-red skins. Makes sense to try this as it's a reliable
early-ripening grape that makes aromatic and fruity white wine. A very
interesting offering reminiscent of a Semillon-based dessert wine. Rich
mango, apricot flavours with good ripe acidity. A floaty, warm finish.
92/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Part 5: The Pinot Noirs
Dalrymple Pinot Noir 2009
Clean nose of cherry and reduced raspberry. Nice try even tannins
with spicy plum flavours with a hint of cherry candy. Drink now - 2013+.
88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Dalrymple Estate Pinot Noir 2008
Nose of soft strawberry with hidden earth characters. Spicy fruit
on the palate with dry, even tannins kicking in towards the end. A well made
wine. Drink now - 2015. 88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Derwent Estate Pinot Noir 2008
Lovely dark berry core with a hint of spicy plum notes. 13.5% alc,
but rather linear on the palate. Drink now. 87/100. Tasted at Tasmania
Unbottled 2010.
Glaetzer-Dixon Avancé Pinot Noir 2009
Aromas of stewed cherry and dark berry fruit. 13.9% alc, even
tannins balance the rich berry fruit flavours nicely. Dry, raspy finish.
Drink now - 2015. 89-90/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Glaetzer-Dixon Rêveur Pinot Noir 2008
Clean and focussed dark berry fruit aromas, the fruit is obviously
well-extracted and is on the edge with ripe, sweet strawberry flavours. Even
load of youthful tannins, this is a good wine. Drink now - 2017. 90/100.
Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Goaty Hill Pinot Noir 2009
Latent smoky dark berry fruit aromas ala steaming from the desert
pot. 14% alc, but I feel the alcohol burn. Rather out of whack. 86/100.
Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Heemskerk Derwent Valley Pinot Noir 2008
LUC$38. This vineyard is located near the Derwent estuary and
resides on silty soil. An elegant wine, this has captivating spicy, dark
berry fruit aromas. Even grippy tannins balancing 14% alc and with fresh,
zippy strawberry and ripe red currant fruit flavours. Drink now - 2017+.
91-92/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Heemskerk Tamar Valley Pinot Noir 2008
LUC$38. Fruit from an old vineyard located on steep, rocky soils. A
coy nose that, on first approach, is not laden with the typical fruit
aromas, interesting mix. Spice, plum and cherry flavours are subtle on the
palate, 13.5% alc, the tannins are fine in this feminine wine. Drink now -
2020. 91/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Home Hill Kelly's Reserve Pinot Noir 2008
Medium crimson-ruby colour, warm cherry and strawberry aromas.
13.8% alc. Med- level of stalky tannins and a soft berry-filled body. Drink
now - 2013+. 88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Josef Chromy Pepik Pinot Noir 2009
Lovely strawberry, summer bush nose. 12.5% alc. Hint of savoury
tannins, ripening strawberry fruit flavours. Not bad for this entry level.
Drink now - 2013. 88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Josef Chromy Pinot Noir 2008
A youthful perfume of strawberry and savoury cherry. A balanced
wine with sweet cherry fruit, strawberry leaf and rhubarb. Warm finish.
Drink now - 2017. 91+/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Moorilla Muse Pinot Noir 2008
A nice all-rounded wine with loads of spicy cherry dark berry
fruit. A balanced effort despite 14.4% alc. Drink now - 2015. 89/100. Tasted
at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Moorilla Praxis Pinot Noir 2009
Clean aromatic bouquet of sweet cherry fruit and strawberry candy.
Even tannins, balanced core of dark strawberry and cherry stalks. 14.7% alc.
Nice effort. Drink now - 2017. 89-90/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Native Point Pinot Noir 2005
Lovely rounded perfume nose of cherry, stalks and twigs all thrown
into the barrel. Dry stalky tannins, peppery cherry fruit with a savoury
finish. 13.6% alc. Drink now. 88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Pooley Pinot Noir 2008
Lovely clean dark cherry and strawberry aromas. Pure strawberry
essence oil flavours with hints of mulberry bush and sweet spice. 14.2% alc
plays its part on the big finish, surprisingly held in check. Drink now -
2015. 88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Pooley Butcher's Block Pinot Noir 2007
Deep spicy perfume of mulberry and freeze-dried strawberry. Lots of
dry tannins, flavours of cherry skins and strawberry leaf into an intense
finish. 14.6% alc, the high level of alcohol heat is obvious. Drink now -
2017. 89/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Springvale Freycinet Coast Pinot Noir 2008
Odd funky nose, spiced dried plum, oxidised? Did not taste. Listed
as 13.6% alc.
Springvale Melrose Pinot Noir 2010
Light crimson colour, soft cherry flavours with stalks and savoury
mulberry. Light in flavour, 13.4% alc. Definitely an easy drink for now.
86/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Stefano Lubiana Primavera Pinot Noir 2009
LUC$20. A simple fruity pinot noir with ripe fruit and made for
easy drinking. Drink now - 2015. 88/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Stefano Lubiana Estate Pinot Noir 2008
LUC$35. A restrained nose of cherry with stalks intact. Loads of
dry tannins give a nice structure to the dark berries and black cherry
flavours. Drink 2013 - 2017+. 90/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Stefano Lubiana Sasso Pinot Noir 2008
LUC$60. A lovely perfumed core of dark berry fruit and baby
strawberry. Unfortunately, to me, the fruit load and flavour profile was
really a step back from the aromatics. It needed to be turned up 2 notches
to fulfil it's status as the premium label in this line. Still a good wine
nonetheless. Drink now - 2015+. 89/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.
Part 6: The +1
Stefano Lubiana Merlot 2008
Surprisingly accessible smoky dark fruit aromas with even grippy
tannins and loads of blackberry, plum skins and mulberry. Interesting
offering. Drink now. 87/100. Tasted at Tasmania Unbottled 2010.