Simple palates, Seriously

Victoria, Western Australia and the Canberra District

Battely Syrah 2005, VIC $60-70. The Battely shiraz is one that comes up again and again in annual shiraz-offs. And no wonder too! This is one line that has consistently delivered at multiple levels. Fermentation is individually conducted in 1 tonne fermenters and the 4% viognier is co-fermented. The juice spends 21 days on skins before a basket press, then into French barrels (25% new, various coopers) for 18 months. Bottles are left for 8 months before release, allowing the wine to come together and show off better right from the start. You can get more information off the Battely website. Lovely nose, picked up primary notes of aniseed and raspberries. Clean palate of ripe dark fruits balanced with soft persistent tannins. The aftertaste is good, but overall this doesn't make too much of an impression on me and doesn't warrant the price tag. I think the 2004 is a better buy. 89/90/100. Tasted August 2007.
Castagna Genesis Syrah 2004, Beechworth, VIC $75-90. Castagna is a biodynamic vineyard in Beechworth that is reliant on wild-yeast fermentation, having never used cultured yeast since their first vintage in 1998. Julian Castagna has managed to create a explosive wine that doesn't destroy your tastebuds and throat. Aromas of savoury violets with a dash of white pepper complement flavours of blackberries and cedary oak. An aftertaste that goes on for quite sometime without the alcohol heat but with a balanced touch of tannins. That said, I'm not sure the price is the best reflection of the quality of drink you're getting in the bottle. 90/100. Tasted August 2007.
Chambers Rosewood Light Muscat 2006, Rutherglen, VIC
 Picked this up last weekend at the Food and Wine Show. Their crops have been reduced to 50% this vintage. Anyway this light muscat is a perfect summer's drink. About 5%, crystal pink in colour. Light and sweet, very refreshing served cold. 92/100 Tasted end March 07
2005 Chambers Rosewood Walnut Muscat, Rutherglen, VIC
 Into the glass, and you straight away pick up on the lush aromatics wafting upwards. Rose syrup notes, this rich muscat (lighter texture than usual muscat standards) has a rich raisiny flavour with an aftertaste that goes for about 20secs and doesn't leave you gasping for a rinse of water. 91/100 Tasted end March 07
Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2006, Canberra ($25-30) Berry notes with hints of fresh mint, youthful medium-bodied feel in the mouth with good fruit structure. Very good value for money! 91-92/100. Tasted 16th June 2007.
Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2007 $25-30. 3500 cases produced. I was apprehensive about the quality of the 2007 wines, based solely on what I had heard about the draught, frost, ripening conditions. Well, obviously I know nothing about winemaking because this Hilltops is quite a ripper! Dry growing conditions reduced yield, but the fruit that made it through had concentrated sugars and flavours. An opulent blackish-red colour to this one, focussed and dense aromas of perfumed dark fruit wafting from the glass. Good flavour profile of liquorice and dark, ripe berries followed by a compact and pleasing finish. I think this will drink well over the next 5-7 years, but maybe have a few lying around for longer? 90/100. Tasted June 2008.
Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2005, Canberra
$70. Appears to be from a completely different world away from the main style of aussie reds (being barossian or Heathcote) but shares the stratosphere with Torbreck's Runrig. Aromatic perfumed, what it lacks in fruit-driven punch, it more than picks up the slack in terms of elegance. Berry, floral notes with a moderate aftertaste centred towards the front half of the pallet and tip of the tongue. Tannin levels are perfectly balanced, and merely an afterthought as you savour this juice. I decanted for an hour before drinking, and the wine stood the test of time by holding perfectly for 48 hours across 24 degree days on the dining table. Clonakilla is argued to make the best viognier down under, and not many may offer equivocal alternatives although the straight viognier is rather pricey ($47 - yet to have this). For $70, the QPR appears to be imbalanced, but considering how lovely this wine is (I won't forget this in a hurry), it's certainly worth having a couple bottles of this beauty tucked away. 97-98/100
Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2006, Canberra ($70-75) Poured from 750ml bottles, surprised to see this format as only magnums were offered in the latest mailer. Dampened down aromas of viognier, flows into the mouth beautifully, with silky tannins and a touch of French oak. I thought it could be more forward and perfumed from my own personal experience from other shiraz viogniers, in particular if compared to the 05 version. 91-93/100. Tasted 16th June 2007.
Clonakilla Syrah 2006 $80-95. 1200 cases produced, straight syrah from the Murrumbateman vineyard that had been blended into the shiraz-viognier. Whole bunch ferment in native yeasts, 3 weeks maceration on skins followed by 20 months in 40% new French oak. A strange one to me, quite like a Hermitage, there are aromas of sullen red fruit and smoked meat. A fine drink no doubt, lighter in structure than you'd anticipate, flavour-wise soft and elegant with a touch of bitterness at the end. I'm not sure how this would turn out, Tim suggests cellaring for 5-10, while Campbell Mattinson says 2016-2028. 92-93/100. Tasted June 2008.
Clonakilla O'Riada Shiraz 2007 $35-45. 240 cases produced of this first-timer named after John Kirk's Irish musician cousin. Fruit selected from 5 vineyards around the district, pre-ferment maceration, some whole bunches, warm extended ferments, 2% overall co-fermented viognier and 12 months maturation in 35% new French oak. Nice aromatic nose of blackcurrant, red berries, touch of savoury spice. Lively drink, medium-bodied, a decent level of fruit, tannins slightly softer than the Hilltops. Drink over 5 years. Some magnums available. 91/100. Tasted June 2008.
Clonakilla Nouveaux Viognier 2008 $23-27. 212 cases produced, fermented in stainless steel tanks and bottled early, this has captured a good proportion of the crisp, fleshy fruit flavours of viognier. I thought the colour on this was a shade darker than the usual, in a light golden way. Aromas of line, slatey talc powder with rich fruity flavours, lemon and lime rind, then finishing very long. 92-93/100. Tasted June 2008.
Clonakilla Viognier 2005, Canberra
$47.This exudes an aroma of musky ripe apricot spiced with ginger, reminding me of a damp mossy undergrowth with rays of sunlight streaming in through the cool overgrowth. It's full bodied in the mouth giving off an exotic sensation. This is amazing stuff from the Canberra district which does provide the ideal growing conditions for this variety. Unfortunately word is that the current crops have been severely damaged by bouts of frost, however we've still got a fantastic 2006 vintage to look forward to. I've said that $47 is really pricing this beauty out of a lot of leagues, but if you're looking to indulge this summer, this baby is IT! 95/100. Tasted 10/12/06
Clonakilla Viognier 2006, Canberra ($42.50-50) Boxed up aromatics with a sharp punch of citrus flavours. Not the most subtle of viogniers. 85-87/100. Tasted 16th June 2007.
Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Merlot 2005, Margaret River, WA $80-95, 74% cab sauv, 16% merlot, 5% malbec, 4% cab franc, 1% petit verdot. Nose of light violets, cedar, dark fruit with hints of red berries. Medium-full bodied, smooth and fresh texture with layer upon layer of fruity flavours and chalky tannins (which aren't offensive). This is the first WA wine that I've been excited about in a LONG time. Brilliant effort boasting an elegant structure with sophisticated aromatics. Certainly a keeper, dare I say 15+ years? 92+/100. Tasted 7th July 2007.
By Farr Chardonnay 2006, Geelong, VIC

$55-65. Lightish yellow, soft mineral nose, damp stone and slight primary fruit in the nose. Taste is simple, not creamy. Good acidity and overall a weak drink for me. 87-88/100. Tasted March 2008.

A quick note about the new 2006 releases by By Farr, the Bannockburn/Geelong winery. According the to report by Gary, the 2006 vintage was warm with below average rainfall and harvest was about 1.7tons/acre (28hL/ha). "... good replication of site and soil conditions, great finesse and strength of flavour with complexity"
By Farr Pinot Noir 2006, Geelong, VIC $57-68. Rich full nose but lacks the honest earthiness that I'd expect from pinots, especially given that this is coming from a 'cooler climate'. Simple fruit flavours with light fine tannins with a decent finish that leaves one expecting more for this price. Not my style of pinot. 87-88/100. Tasted March 2008.

A quick note about the new 2006 releases by By Farr, the Bannockburn/Geelong winery. According the to report by Gary, the 2006 vintage was warm with below average rainfall and harvest was about 1.7tons/acre (28hL/ha). "... good replication of site and soil conditions, great finesse and strength of flavour with complexity"
By Farr Sangreal 2006, Geelong, VIC $59-70. Subdued nose of red berry bouquet. Rich dark red colour, very fruity, but again, this isn't what pinot should be about. Too primary and simple for my liking. Better off buying a couple of entry level burgs. 88-89/100. Tasted March 2008.

A quick note about the new 2006 releases by By Farr, the Bannockburn/Geelong winery. According the to report by Gary, the 2006 vintage was warm with below average rainfall and harvest was about 1.7tons/acre (28hL/ha). "... good replication of site and soil conditions, great finesse and strength of flavour with complexity"
By Farr Shiraz 2006, Geelong, VIC $55-65. This has got 3% of viognier in it. Certainly a cool climate shiraz. Bland flavours mingled with savoury and earthy oakiness and tannins which when settled, probably still won't reveal too much else about this wine. 88-89/100. Tasted March 2008.

A quick note about the new 2006 releases by By Farr, the Bannockburn/Geelong winery. According the to report by Gary, the 2006 vintage was warm with below average rainfall and harvest was about 1.7tons/acre (28hL/ha). "... good replication of site and soil conditions, great finesse and strength of flavour with complexity"
Giaconda McLay Road Shiraz 2006, Beechworth, VIC $34-40. Fashioned by winemaker Rick Kinzbrunner in the style of Cotes du Rhone, Crozes Hermitage, so one should expect a young and fresh flavoured wine. The vines of Giaconda live in a cooler Victorian environment than their Northern counterparts in Heathcote and Grampians. Detailed information about the vineyards, soil composition and fermentation methods can be found on the Giaconda website. Exotic nose of sweet spices, plum and mulberries. The palate is very pleasant, exuding ripe primary fruity flavours with a touch of sweetness. The finish is long and satisfying, with no overt unripe tannins coming through; however, despite all that going on, I somehow feel that this lacks some element of depth. 91/100. Tasted August 2007.
Giaconda Nantua 'Les Deux' 2006, Beechworth, VIC $42-50. The vines of Giaconda live in a cooler Victorian environment than their Northern counterparts in Heathcote and Grampians. Detailed information about the vineyards, soil composition and fermentation methods can be found on the Giaconda website. Consistently ranked amongst the top aussie Chardonnays, the Nantua Les Deux is a blend of 93% chardonnay and 7% roussanne from the Nantua and Warner vineyards. Barrel fermented in 30% new French oak. The blend proportions have changed from previous vintages (starting in 2000, used to stand at 85/15%). Light off-yellow in colour, this has a nice nose of buttery sweet fruits. The structure of this wine is reminiscent of Old World Burgundian chardonnays as it's a mild, softer drink with a lemony taste. The aftertaste is pleasant, and the crisp acidity so typical of WA chardonnays is missing. 90-91/100. Tasted August 2007.
Giaconda Chardonnay 2007, Beechworth, VIC $80-95. Rick Kinzbrunner runs a stellar operation down in Beechworth, but are his wines really worth their price tags? Only one white wine will be released for the 2007 vintage due to a reduction in crop volume. There will be no Nantua release, and fruit from that vineyard has been blended with the Estate Vineyard together with 11% Roussanne from the Aeolia. The result is a soft, yet elegant blend with notes of lemon citrus, creamy textures which are quite full on the palate and a rich aftertaste. 92/100.
Giaconda Shiraz 2006, Beechworth, VIC $80-95. Notes of graphite and bristle-brush, freshly cut fleshy stone fruit with chewy tannins. Not bad stuff. 92/100.
Holly's Garden Pinot Gris 2005, Moondarra, VIC
~$28. Wild fermented and at 14.5%, this beauty is more dry than the sweet 06 release, and now's the perfect time to crack open a few as the weather warms up over spring. This hails from the Moondarra region, and is grown at altitude (850m) on volcanic soils of the Whitlands plateau. Notes of honeysuckle and melon. Perfect as a starter or the casual glass. 7/10
Kiltynane Estate Pinot Noir 2006, Yarra Valley, VIC $42-50. An interesting biodynamic operation run by Kate Kirkhope in Tarrawarra. Vines are hand-picked in the coolness of the early morning, then 10% whole bunch goes toward cold maceration in a cold room which is followed by a warm wild fermentation stage. This wine is focussed, nice aromatic profile of undergrowth and ripe strawberry. Fruit-forward drink that is akin to the 2005 Burgundies sans the chewy raw tannins, although there are fresh tannins in this one which hold up the wine quite nicely amongst all that dark fruit flavours. But what's with all the over-priced decent Yarra drinks? Pick this up for $35-40. 91/100.
McHenry Hohnen 3 Amigos Marsanne Chardonnay Rousanne 2005, Margaret River, WA
 $23-28, a trio blend, mainly Marsanne from the McLeod Creek and Calgardup Brook vineyards, Chardonnay from Rocky Road and Rousanne from McLeod Creek. Similar to the wine regions on the western coast of California, these southerly located vineyards on the southern half of the MR receive the cool ocean winds blowing in from the Great Southern Ocean. Aromas of young green herb and white nectarine. At 13.0%, this light - medium bodied wine has firm acidity with lean structure, and clean flavours of lemon rind and white peach. Flavoursome, but abit on the lighter side for me, would have liked it more if it had more going. Dry, crisp finish of a reasonable length. 89/100. Tasted August 2007.

The second vintage of McHenry Hohnen offers an exciting lineup of tradition and new tastes to the table. David Hohnen is the co-founder of Margaret River's famed Cape Mentelle and has also dabbled with the hugely successful Cloudy Bay in New Zealand. McHenry Hohnen is a venture with his brother-in-law Murray McHenry and to keep it in the family, his daughter Fraya Hohnen is the wine maker. An impressive 18 different varietals are grown on four separate vineyards in Witchcliff, along a south flowing and an east flowing stretches of the Margaret River. The range comprises of the MR-associated Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also includes Marsanne, Rousanne, Grenache, Graciano, Mataro, Shiraz and Tempranillo.
McHenry Hohnen 3 Amigos Shiraz Grenache Mataro 2005, Margaret River, WA
 $23-28, a beautiful blend of ~46% Shiraz, 26-30% Mataro and topped up with Grenache. 14.0%, light ruby colour, a whiff brings the clear savoury smell of shiraz and the floral notes so typical of grenache. Medium bodied, dry with fine tannins, flavours are a bit towards the muted side for me, I was expected more based on the intriguing nose. But a good finish. 88-89/100. Tasted August 2007.

The second vintage of McHenry Hohnen offers an exciting lineup of tradition and new tastes to the table. David Hohnen is the co-founder of Margaret River's famed Cape Mentelle and has also dabbled with the hugely successful Cloudy Bay in New Zealand. McHenry Hohnen is a venture with his brother-in-law Murray McHenry and to keep it in the family, his daughter Fraya Hohnen is the wine maker. An impressive 18 different varietals are grown on four separate vineyards in Witchcliff, along a south flowing and an east flowing stretches of the Margaret River. The range comprises of the MR-associated Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also includes Marsanne, Rousanne, Grenache, Graciano, Mataro, Shiraz and Tempranillo.
McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Chardonnay 2006, Margaret River, WA $32-38, very interesting to note "grapes are harvested in the cool of the night", whole berry pressings fermented by natural yeasts, partial malolactic fermentation and aging in mainly older barrels. 12.5%, this light wine exuded notes of sweet tomato soup, with light apple flavours and finishing with a slight tingle. 88/100. Tasted August 2007.

The second vintage of McHenry Hohnen offers an exciting lineup of tradition and new tastes to the table. David Hohnen is the co-founder of Margaret River's famed Cape Mentelle and has also dabbled with the hugely successful Cloudy Bay in New Zealand. McHenry Hohnen is a venture with his brother-in-law Murray McHenry and to keep it in the family, his daughter Fraya Hohnen is the wine maker. An impressive 18 different varietals are grown on four separate vineyards in Witchcliff, along a south flowing and an east flowing stretches of the Margaret River. The range comprises of the MR-associated Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also includes Marsanne, Rousanne, Grenache, Graciano, Mataro, Shiraz and Tempranillo.
McHenry Hohnen Rocky Road Zinfandel 2005, Margaret River, WA $32-38, vines were grown off the original imports that came from Lodi, California (the adopted motherland of Zinfandel). A very difficult variety to work with, and David deserves applause for having the guts and patience to give this one a go. Wine growing climates would be similar to the Californian coast in some aspects. At 14.5%, glad to see it's not in the high alcohol'ed style that emerging in the USA. Rich, dense flavours, primary fruit showing through. Maybe a bit of a dulled finish, with a nice tingling sensation. 88-89/100. Tasted August 2007.

The second vintage of McHenry Hohnen offers an exciting lineup of tradition and new tastes to the table. David Hohnen is the co-founder of Margaret River's famed Cape Mentelle and has also dabbled with the hugely successful Cloudy Bay in New Zealand. McHenry Hohnen is a venture with his brother-in-law Murray McHenry and to keep it in the family, his daughter Fraya Hohnen is the wine maker. An impressive 18 different varietals are grown on four separate vineyards in Witchcliff, along a south flowing and an east flowing stretches of the Margaret River. The range comprises of the MR-associated Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also includes Marsanne, Rousanne, Grenache, Graciano, Mataro, Shiraz and Tempranillo.
McHenry Hohnen Tiger Country Tempranillo Petit Verdot Cabernet 2005, Margaret River, WA $25.50-30, another interesting blend on offer comprised of 50% Tempranillo from McLeod Creek, 32% Petit Verdot and the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon both from the southern half of the MR. Some notes from a handout, and as mentioned before, these vineyards get the cool humid ocean winds from the Great Southern Ocean which have "an important role for ripening in the cooler part of autumn". Vines take root on land of granite soil with medium to low fertility, and grown on a single bi-lateral cordon with vertically trained canopy. Notes of dark red fruit with raspberry coming across, medium-bodied drink comes in at 14.0% and is an interesting comparison to the 3 amigos red blend. It's a balanced drink, very simple, certainly good to be paired with food. Maybe a bit too much oak for it's own good contained within, but might settle in 2-3 years? 88/100. Tasted August 2007.

The second vintage of McHenry Hohnen offers an exciting lineup of tradition and new tastes to the table. David Hohnen is the co-founder of Margaret River's famed Cape Mentelle and has also dabbled with the hugely successful Cloudy Bay in New Zealand. McHenry Hohnen is a venture with his brother-in-law Murray McHenry and to keep it in the family, his daughter Fraya Hohnen is the wine maker. An impressive 18 different varietals are grown on four separate vineyards in Witchcliff, along a south flowing and an east flowing stretches of the Margaret River. The range comprises of the MR-associated Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also includes Marsanne, Rousanne, Grenache, Graciano, Mataro, Shiraz and Tempranillo.
Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Margaret River, WA $90 - 110. Cabernet Sauvignon blended with cabernet franc, petit verdot and merlot (% unknown to me, probably available somewhere online). A nose on par with the Cullen, waft of creme de cassis, cedar and violets (recurring smell of the day?), the addition of other grape varietals makes this a deeply complex wine, with neat layers of pure clean fruit flavours. A frank drink ready to go right now, but would be great many years from now. 92/100.
Mt Langi Ghiran Riesling 2006, Grampians, VIC ($17-20): Weak nose, not much aromatics, acidity a bit on the high side to suit the flavours of poached stone fruit (white fruit/peach?). 13.5%. 87/100. Tasted 19th May 2007.
Mt Langi Ghiran Shiraz 2004, Grampians, VIC ($45-55): after skipping the 2003 vintage, the Ghiran shiraz is back. Subdued and carpeted perfume, it's an okay drink. 88-89/100. Tasted 19th May 2007.
Paringa Estate 2005 Riesling, Mornington Peninsula, VIC ($15): The 3rd estate release from 16-yr-old vines off the Callanans Rd vineyard. Tank fermented, the wine has retained a lot of its original ripe fruitiness and unadulterated acidity. Very fragrant, floral and light lemon with a hint of kerosene. Palate of citrus fruits, crisp acidity, flavours go on and on. Can't get any better value for money! 91+/100. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Paringa Estate 2006 Estate Pinot Gris, Mornington Peninsula, VIC ($20): Aroma of pear, high level of malolactic acid, with apple flavours and finishing shortly with clear acidity. 89/100. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Paringa Estate 2005 Peninsula Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, VIC ($18): Blend of fruits from several vineyards around the area. Fruity aromas of citrus and stone fruit, nectarine. Palate has similar characteristics. Good acidity. 90-91/100. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Paringa Estate 2005 Estate Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, VIC ($35): A notch up from the Peninsula version, clean citrus and stone fruit flavours but with a slight creamy nut flavour. Aftertaste stays for awhile with malolactic acid. Will definitely improve with age. 92-93/100. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Paringa Estate 2006 Estate Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, VIC ($55): Only bottled 2.5 months ago, but cellar door has started to release it as the 05s have sold out. Notes of dark cherry with the new oak showing significantly. Savoury flavour on top of  dark fruits. Revisit in 5 years. 91/100. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Paringa Estate 2004 Peninsula Shiraz, Mornington Peninsula, VIC ($25): Nose of ripe blackberry (mulberry?) fruit. Taste is clearly a cool climate shiraz, lacking in the warm heat typical to so many other VIC shirazes. Medium-bodied with plum flavours and a hint of pepper. Soft tannins. 88/100. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Paringa Estate 2005 Estate Shiraz, Mornington Peninsula, VIC ($50): 3% viognier added, but I don't understand why I got no hint of the viognier aromatics that should be present. Co-fermented, aged for 15 months in new and one-year old French oak. Plum flavours. Drinkable. 88/100. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Pettavel Evening Star Late Harvest Riesling 2005, Geelong, VIC
 Amazing stuff out of Geelong. Rich roman-golden colour with mixed rich equatorial notes of ripe papaya and sugar pineapple. Sweet orangey finish minus the harsh acidity and citrus sugars. Tropical punch in a glass. 92-3/100.
Sanguine Estate Heathcote Shiraz 2004, VIC
 ($31) Opened and left for 1 hour in bottle standing. Juice carries a deep intense blackish-purple and gives off a masculine nose of subtle perfumed berries. This medium bodied wine is not like the hunky stuff that you'd expect from the ancient heathcote soils of Victoria. Very well-balanced with the tannins and acidity in good harmony. Notes of plum, masked white pepper that concentrates to the back of the pallet and the middle of the tongue. Reasonable aftertaste.
Left O/N on the table, but alas the weather was terribly warm which took away an element from the wine, so I didn't make any notes. But certainly a bottle I'd pull out for a casual drink. 7.5/10
Sanguine Estate Heathcote Shiraz 2005, VIC The 2005 version of the Sanguine Heathcote shiraz saw an extended length of time in oak compared to the 2004 release, up to 18 months. The end-product is indeed different, and this release has a much more velvety and softer aromatic profile. (92-94/100). Tasted 24th March 2007.
Sanguine Estate Quattro 2005, VIC $25. A typical Bordeaux blend consisting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot, its nicely perfumed with a velvety texture (92-94/100). Tasted 24th March 2007.
Sanguine Estate Chardonnay/Viognier 2005, VIC $25. This interesting blend has 10% viognier, so I expected more exotic fruity notes to come across. Instead it had a deep buttery nose with a slightly harsher texture due to the viscosity imparted by the viognier 88/100.  Tasted 24th March 2007.
Sanguine Estate Progeny 2004, VIC $25. The grapes that go into Sanguine Estate's second tier shiraz - the Progeny - comes from a parcel of light soil right next to the dark soils that hold the Heathcote shiraz fruit and sits on a slightly higher elevation along a slope. This was indeed a younger version of the Heathcote shiraz having only spent 12 months in oak (the latter also had a significant amount of new French oak), but it's got the same dense fruit backdrop within. Tasted 24th March 2007.
Savaterre Chardonnay 2004, Beechworth, VIC A light, stingy nose paired with a tight lean structure. Still closed at the moment. Have to revisit in 3-4 years. 85-6/100. Tasted at offline in July 2007.
Savaterre Chardonnay 2005, Beechworth, VIC $65-75, Milder than the Giaconda Nantua chardonnay. Weak hint of butter on the nose with an orange cake finish. Nice, worth a follow-up in just under a decade's time. 89/100. Tasted August 2007.
Savaterre Pinot Noir 2005, Beechworth, VIC $65-75, notes of clear sweet red berries. Tannins linger on the palate and there's a bit of fruit in there somewhere. Honestly, for the 2005 pinot vintage, you're just better off buying entry level burgs. 87-88/100. Tasted august 2007.
Smiths Vineyard Cabernet Merlot 2005, Beechworth, VIC $25. Two-thirds Cabernet, one-third merlot which gives this blend a bit of a lift structurally. A lighter styled wine with notes of plum and capsicum and followed up with red berry flavours and spice backed by soft tannins. Good, should drink well over next 5 years. 89/100.

This small operation is the oldest in existence in Beechworth, a region that produces quality chardonnay, pinot noir and riesling and more commonly associated with Giaconda. Residing at 550m altitude, Smiths has been around since 1978 when they grew grapes for Brown Bros. and has now turned to focus on producing a small turnout of 1500 cases from a mere 3.2hec overseen by winemaker Will (no, he's not a Smith but look out for his Flamsteed label produced with his brother).
Smiths Vineyard Chardonnay 2006, Beechworth, VIC $34, 400 cases produced. Matured in 15-20% new French oak coupled with ~10% malo and a wild yeast ferment. Clean yellowish tinge for a colour, there a uplifting nose of citrus, melon and stone fruit. Good flavours present in this elegant wine which should live for the next 5-7 years.

This small operation is the oldest in existence in Beechworth, a region that produces quality chardonnay, pinot noir and riesling and more commonly associated with Giaconda. Residing at 550m altitude, Smiths has been around since 1978 when they grew grapes for Brown Bros. and has now turned to focus on producing a small turnout of 1500 cases from a mere 3.2hec overseen by winemaker Will (no, he's not a Smith but look out for his Flamsteed label produced with his brother).
Smiths Vineyard Shiraz 2006, Beechworth, VIC $25, to be released in Feb 08. The first vintage of a shiraz/viognier blend from this winery. The shiraz is from 14yo vines with 3-4% viognier added via whole bunch coferments, followed by 12 months maturation in 2nd year round French oak. Uplifting perfumed nose, but comes across as being a feather weight which is elegant and soft. Turns out to be medium-bodied on the palate with soft tannins and decent fruit levels. Good finish. 90/100.

This small operation is the oldest in existence in Beechworth, a region that produces quality chardonnay, pinot noir and riesling and more commonly associated with Giaconda. Residing at 550m altitude, Smiths has been around since 1978 when they grew grapes for Brown Bros. and has now turned to focus on producing a small turnout of 1500 cases from a mere 3.2hec overseen by winemaker Will (no, he's not a Smith but look out for his Flamsteed label produced with his brother).
Stonier Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2004, Mornington Peninsula, VIC $28: Fruity, slightly dry on the palate. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Stonier Chardonnay 2005, Mornington Peninsula, VIC $23: fruit from 10 year old vines, 80% fermented in 3-4yr old French oak, 20% in steel vats. High malolactic flavour, very fruity, but the acid levels might be on the slightly higher side. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Stonier Reserve Chardonnay 2005, Mornington Peninsula, VIC $39: fruit from 21 year old vines, fermented in brand new, or 1-2 yr old French oak. Very aromatic, notes of ripe melon?. Fragrant and good lingering aftertaste. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Stonier Pinot Noir 2005, Mornington Peninsula, VIC $24: young vines into old oak, hence a very herby young and tight nose. Structure is lean, cherry. Drink over 2-3 years. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir 2005, Mornington Peninsula, VIC $45: old vines (planted 1982) into new oak, small portion whole bunch fermented. Tannins are very high now, quite dry and harsh. Retaste after 4-5 years. Tasted 31st May 2007.
Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier lieu dit Malakoff Shiraz 2004, Pyreness, VIC
$36. I think this is the first release from this joint project. Opened last night. first notes of currents, but I decided to leave the bottle for 5 hours given the style of Chapoutier creations so it felt quite closed initially. After 5 hours, there was a musky smell of bitter chocolate around the table, within the glass, more cherry. Medium-bodied with a second of ground coffee. Good lasting aftertaste.
Next day, getting a sense of it being a cool climate shiraz, unlike your big Barossa or Heathcote ones. Nice drink, but it's mellowed quite a bit. 6/10
Thomas Kiss Shiraz 2006, Hunter Valley, NSW $45-55. Rich blackcurrant aromas mixed with some blackberry, this is a sleek, fruit-driven wine with spice dark berry flavours, touch of organic earth backed by the soft, ripe tannins. Elegant and savoury. 91/100.
Wedgetail Estate Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2006, Yarra Valley, VIC $32-36. Winemaker Guy Lamothe has produced quite a beauty from this single hill-side vineyard. Quite decent tonnage, 2ton/acre which is hand-picked in the coolness of the early mornings. Spent 10months in barrel, 25% new French so there is a clear presence of oak in this one. I'm getting floral scents mingled into sweet talc and light fruity aromas. Fresh fruity flavours, some acidity but I think it could do with a bit more as its finishes with a bit of fat on the sides. A decent, lively Chardonnay certainly, but I see this more as a $25-value. 89/100.
Wedgetail Estate Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005, Yarra Valley, VIC $38-45. This is another interesting offer from Wedgetail Estate. A single vineyard Pinot Noir, cropped at 1.5ton/acre and sees 25% new French oak for 12months. The final product is a fruit-forward, easy to drink pinot with aromatic notes of black cherry and slight touch of over-ripe strawberry. Only 5% whole bunch going in, so the level of tannins are into the ignorable level. Again, I feel this should be slightly cheaper for the market, probably $30-35. 90-91/100.

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